

Labs around here give a disclaimer when you buy either Delta 3200 or Kodak’s P3200 that developing according to box speed costs extra.
3200 is indeed difficult to shoot in daylight, especially with older bodies that run out of fast enough shutter speeds. That’s why you really should have multiple bodies with you for different lighting conditions, if you’re trying to get the best results. I usually carry three, color or BW ISO 100 for daylight, BW@1600 (typically HP5 or kentmere 400) for well-lit indoors, and BW@12800 (typically Delta3200) for poorly lit indoors and night time street photography. I don’t like shooting with a flash, so I tend to prefer pushing the hell out of fast film even when shooting in a dim environment.
Even then there’s an upper limit to things. Even with the “3200” films you start running into issues when pushing past +5 stops (50k ISO upwards). Metering becomes an issue as well, mine caps at 12800 and isn’t really that usable at the high end. My Canon A-1 can technically meter up to 12800 as well, though I’d advise pushing a stop extra if you choose to do that. It’s had a tendency to underexposea a bit, possibly related to reciprocity.
If you want to see how the 3200 speed alternatives fare when pushes to the extreme, attic darkroom is a good starting point.
I’ve two rolls pending development at ISO 25600, I’ll try to remember adding examples when I’ve mixed a new batch of microphen.










Keep them in a well ventilated space, if they rot too quickly it may be due to ethane making them ripen too fast. A mixed fruit bowl is one of the worst possible ways to store fruit.
Apples offgas ethane as an example, making other things around them ripen faster. In a cool, ventilated environment where you replace the ethane with something inert they can last over the winter.
I tend to get 1-2 weeks of shelf life from fruit, though I tend to only buy the stuff that stores well. (apples, bananas, oranges etc.)