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Fashion in Focus

Does this new label mark the rise of slow, conscious fashion?

For decades, Safia Minney’s brand People Tree was at the forefront of sustainable fashion. Now, after stepping down as CEO in 2015, she’s founded a new brand, Indilisi, to try and fight an industry that is causing 92 million tonnes of waste. She tells Caroline Garland more

Behind the scenes at Swallows, the Bangladesh-based social enterprise that make all of Indilisi garments by hand

Not long ago, Saturday afternoons meant lunching with friends and browsing the high street for fun – fashion was a social ritual as much as a self-expression. Today, it remains a source of creativity and identity, but the industry itself is in crisis. Global production has spiralled far beyond demand, with fast fashion now operating at breakneck, near-instant speed.

The result? Ninety-two million tonnes of waste is generated annually, contributing to 10 per cent of global carbon emissions. In the UK alone, 350,000 tonnes of clothing end up in landfill each year.

Despite growing support for slower, more ethical alternatives, ultra-fast fashion giants like Shein and Temu continue to grow. In 2024, Shein’s UK revenue surged to £1.55bn in 2023, while high-street mainstay Primark reported £9.45bn. Yet amidst this overproduction, a quiet resistance is building. Second-hand fashion sales reached £2.4bn last year, as nearly half of UK adults bought pre-loved items. Interest in handmade, made-to-order garments and clothing with genuine provenance is on the rise, with more people also turning to traditional skills like sewing in response to economic hardship.

While luxury fashion has got the memo and started to embrace craft and heritage, there is a real need for more affordable alternatives. One person who is trying is the founder of sustainable fashion brand People Tree and the Fashion Declares organisation, Safia Minney, who has now launched a new slow-fashion label Indilisi.