Phulkari can be broken down into “PHUL” & “KARI” meaning “Flower” and “Embroidery” respectively. Its a very intricate needle work of mainly geometric patterns and figural representations of scenes from daily life., with bright coloured threads like red, orange, blue, green, etc. The patterns in Phulkari are very geometric in nature and the embroidery is done by counting number of threads to make symmetrical patterns.

Use of only Darning Stitch in the entire embroidery. PAT i.e. the silk floss untwisted thread is used for embroidery. Stitches are made by counting the warp and weft. All stitches are at right angles such that even threads of the same colour give different shades due to the variation in the way in which light falls.

The embroideries were a mere reflection of their life. Things that they see, observe, vegetables that they eat, animals that they owned, were embroidered. Every woman had her way of embroidery, her way of representing.

Traditional fabric used for Phukari was usually home-spun and locally woven Khadi cloth(Khaddar) Red was popular as the color of the base cloth, though other colors like black, blue, brown and white were also used.The actual embroidery was done with a Pat, the Punjabi word for untwisted floss silk yarn. This yarn was sourced from China or Afghanistan, and then dyed in Jammu and Amritsar. These yarns were dyed in a variety of colors-red, yellow, crimson, orange and whitewhile blue, green and brown were also used.

The embroidery is done for most part upon khaddar of irregular thickness, generally with between 10-12 wrap threads per cm. Khaddar was woven in narrow strips and sewn together for the required width. Designs and symmetries are created by embroidering from the back face of the cloth
Hence, it was easier to embroider the fabric first and then dye the base fabric(with such a preparation that the silk thread does not get coloured) so that the warps and wefts on the lighter colour are clearly visible.

Most of the time, patterns to be embroidered were not drawn on the fabric beforehand, the embroiderer had to count each thread of the khaddar with meticulous care to build the designs.When a section of embroidery was completed, the fabric was rolled in a clean white cloth to keep it from soiling while work continued on an unembroidered part.

Variations b/w western and eastern Punjab                                               There existed regional variations between phulkaris embroidered in various areas of Punjab. These differences were visible in patterns, motifs and colors as well as in the quality of the base cloth.

Western Punjab
The hindus and sikhs who practised this art in western Punjab (part of present day Pakistan) were organized and affluent. Thus, the quality of the base cloth and of the floss silk yarn was finer(and hence more expensive). The motifs drew there inspiration from Islam. The base cloth was either red or white and the silken floss was usually in soft colors such as white, yellow, or pale orange.  The designs were geometrical, never figurative, and the quality of embroidery was exceptionally sophisticated.

Eastern Punjab
The khadi base and the floss were more vibrant and bold in terms of colors and tones. Shades of red, and other colors of the pat were rich. The pallus of borders were heavily embroidered and the motifs were dominantly inspired by the everyday life of the women: jasmine flowers, gentle waves, household items and so on.

Phulkari is deep rooted in traditions of people from Punjab including both Hindus and Sikhs. But it is often associated with the Sikh heritage. Its more traditional than religious.

It is the traditional art of crafting embroidered odhni/chuni (scarf or shawl) used by women in Punjab, linked integrally with events considered to be milestones in a woman’s life. The Phulkari is more than just an item of clothing; it’s a part of an ethos steeped in social and ritualistic traditions. Phulkaris are linked intimately with ceremonial occasions in the lives of Punjabi women. Specific colors, motifs and drapes are linked with specific events and ceremonies. Linked to the marriage ceremony is the vibrant yellow on usually red base since yellow represents joy, prosperity and fertility. The base cloth is red to represent passion, love and union. The primary motives are 2 triangles with their bases towards either end of the cloth, and the apex towards the centre-are supposed to represent the male and female principles, with the space between the apex representing the present unconsummated state of the relationship.

Birth of baby boy                                                                                                                            In west Punjab, following the birth of a boy, it was customary, to begin a Phulkari called Vari Da Bagh. The newborn’s grandmother would place the first stitch of the embroidery.This bagh would later be handed to the boy’s bride on their wedding day. Worked in yellow/gold yarn on a red ground, the colours symbolise luck and fertility. The whole surface is covered with diamonds, each enclosing a smaller diamond. In intricate pieces three sizes of concentric diamond are found, the smallest again divided into quarters.