On a cloudy Saturday afternoon, people in Kashmir had their eyes fixed on a heavy sky, hoping to catch a glimpse of the crescent moon that marks the arrival of Ramzan. The moon remained hidden, leaving the Valley in uncertainty. A picture of the moon soon surfaced from Tangmarg, 38 kilometres from Srinagar, where the crescent was spotted. The sighting confirmed that Ramzan this year would begin on the evening of March 1, with the first fast observed the following day.
Irfan Ahmed doing his rounds as a “Sahar Khan”, beating the drum to wake people up for the pre-dawn meal (sahar), in Srinagar on March 6. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
In Islamic tradition, moon sighting determines the start of the holy month. During Ramzan, Muslims fast, pray, give to charity, and reflect. It is also a time for self-discipline, restraint over desires and needs, and nurturing of spiritual growth.
A man offering afternoon prayers (asr) at a shrine in Srinagar on March 4. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Markets that were once busy with shoppers are now quiet in Kashmir. Families still prepare for Ramzan, but fewer people can afford to buy what they need.
Also Read | Kashmir: The changing face of Gurez Valley
Watching the thin crowd, a butcher at a small stall in Srinagar said: “People can’t afford meat or basic items this Ramzan. Many are jobless. It’s painful to see them struggle.”
Dates to break the fast
Vendors selling dates line the streets of Srinagar during Ramzan. Dates are in high demand during the holy month, as Muslims traditionally break their fast with dates and water before enjoying iftar, the evening meal eaten after sundown during Ramzan. It is believed that Prophet Muhammad preferred breaking his fast with dates, a tradition followed by Muslims worldwide. The Quran mentions dates 22 times, highlighting their significance. The Quran also says that the Prophet recommended eating seven dates every morning to avoid several illnesses.
People looking at breads in Srinagar’s Hazratbal market on March 4. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Farooq Ahmed at his roadside stall near a shrine in Srinagar where he sells phirni, on March 6. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
During Ramzan, Muslims abstain from food and water from dawn to sunset, which can leave them feeling weak. Dates are packed with protein, providing instant energy and strength.
People buying dates at Srinagar’s well-known Koker Bazar on March 1, ahead of the holy month of Ramzan. The Ramzan fast is broken with dates and water after sundown, an Islamic tradition that is followed worldwide. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Praysing inside a shrine in the Old City of Srinagar before ending the fast on March 4. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
A Muslim woman in the wholesale dates market in Srinagar said people were avoiding purchasing Israeli dates during this Ramzan. “May this blessed month bring relief to our people and may Allah provide for the less fortunate around the world. As Muslims, we make sure to be mindful of what we buy and we carefully check the dates,” she said.
At Srinagar’s Grand Jamia Mosque on March 2, the first day of fasting in this year’s Ramzan. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Quran recitation at Imambara Zadibal, Srinagar, on March 2. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Many working-class people break their Ramzan fast on the streets, where others give out dates and water. Most start with dates and then eat phirni, a sweet rice pudding spiced with cardamom. Many vendors sell phirni during Ramzan, though families also prepare this delicate dessert at home. In the past, phirni was mostly served in clay pots, but this practice has faded with time. Farooq Ahmed, a vendor outside Dastgeer Shrine, has been selling phirni for 56 years. His father passed down the recipe, making his stall a familiar sight during Ramzan.
Reading the Quran at a shrine before breaking the fast, in Srinagar on March 4. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Offering prayers on a jetty on the Dal Lake in Srinagar March 8. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Mosques, shrines, and imambaras are filled with worshippers gathering for prayers and Quran recitations. Special prayers echo through the mosques, creating an atmosphere of devotion and reflection.
Traditional breads in demand during Ramzan
Traditional bread makers in Kashmir are much in demand during Ramzan, with people frequenting their shops to buy special breads that are eaten for iftar and sahar (the pre-dawn meal). In Alamgari Bazar, Srinagar, Irfan, a traditional bread maker, wakes up at night to make bread. “Making bread for believers in the holy month gives me peace of mind. I am very lucky that I am making bread for people who are fasting in this month. I am blessed with this job by God,” he said.
Asr prayers at a shrine in Srinagar on March 4. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Irfan, a baker, making bread for iftar during the holy month of Ramzan in the old city of Srinagar on March 4. | Photo Credit: Adil Abass
Another enduring tradition is the role of the “Sahar Khans”, drummers who walk the streets before dawn waking up people for their sahar. For Irfan Ahmed, 20, from Kupwara, this is his first Ramzan as a Sahar Khan; he is continuing his father’s legacy. The drum hangs from his shoulder as he moves through the narrow lanes of Srinagar’s old city. “Waqt-e-Sahar!” he calls out, his voice echoing through the quiet streets. One by one, the lights flicker on as families wake up. Irfan’s task has its challenges. Stray dogs roam the streets in packs. “There are hundreds of dogs in Srinagar, and I am scared of them,” he said. “But I still do this to follow in my father’s tradition. I am not doing this for money, but we do it to earn heavenly rewards.”
Also Read | Kashmir Assembly election 2024: A vivid portrait of democracy in action
As the sun began to rise, Irfan’s footsteps faded into the alleys. Inside homes, families sat down for sahar, whispering prayers before another day of fasting. Despite the struggles, the spirit of Ramzan remains alive in Kashmir, carried by those who uphold its traditions.
Adil Abass is an independent photographer based in Srinagar, Kashmir.
COMMents
SHARE